Exotic pet CE: Four Husbandry Questions to Ask Reptile Owners Lisa Coder, MS, DVM

As reptiles continue to grow in popularity as pets, it becomes more important that a general practice veterinarian has a basic understanding of common conditions in these unique creatures. Veterinary continuing education (CE) in reptile care becomes invaluable when caring for these animals. As most exotic pet CE courses will reiterate, the vast majority of reptile medical problems are actually husbandry problems, as the care of reptiles is not as simple as dogs and cats, or even other exotic small mammals. Even within the general reptile category, there are large differences in husbandry requirements between species. Read below for the top four reptile husbandry questions that can help veterinarians solve many reptile medical cases. 

Enclosure:  Size, Dimensions, and Enrichment are Important 

Is the enclosure long and low, or narrow and tall? A 40-gallon terrarium is generally a good minimum size for many pet reptiles, but the orientation of the space matters. While a ball python, bearded dragon, or red-footed tortoise can do well in an enclosure that is long along the ground surface as they do not need a tall enclosure, other reptiles such as chameleons need more vertical height as they rarely spend time on the ground. Some tortoises can achieve large body size and may require an even larger enclosure. All reptiles need a hide they can fit under comfortably, and many may prefer branches in order to climb. All enclosures need to be securely closed to prevent escape. 

Decorations and enrichment articles within the enclosure need to be safe for reptiles, without any chemicals that can leach from the products when exposed to heat or humidity. Although many types of natural rocks or crystals can look great in a reptile habitat, certain types can begin to dissolve when exposed to high humidity and expose the reptile to unsafe levels or types of minerals. Small pebbles or rocks can accidentally be ingested and are not appropriate in reptile enclosures. Wood decorations are usually safe as long as they are made of a reptile-safe type of wood and can be easily cleaned. Plastic decorations should be free from sharp edges and points. Many live plants are toxic to reptiles, and need to be researched carefully to ensure safety.  

Many species of tortoises and snakes need an area with deeper substrate to burrow into; bearded dragons may enjoy this as well, but it is not required except in gravid females. Reptile dirt that is not dyed or artificially colored, sphagnum moss, or even strips of paper can be used. Be sure the client checks the substrate regularly to ensure it is clean and free from mold.  

Chameleons are arboreal species and require branches and leaves to climb and hide within. Artificial plants are acceptable, as long as they are reptile-safe and not sharp or jagged along the edges. These reptiles will spend nearly all of their time above ground level in their climbing apparatus. A variety of branch and leaf size will make the chameleon feel safest.  

Room Conditions: Temperature and Humidity 

Different reptiles prefer, or even require, different environmental temperatures and humidity levels. All reptiles need a heat gradient, and the temperature should be monitored in at least two locations in the enclosure. In general, a reptile enclosure should never be cooler than about 70F, even overnight. 

Humidity monitored in the middle of the tank is often sufficient, as warmer air will hold more humidity and an average measurement is adequate. All reptiles do well with increased humidity during shed. Air humidity can be increased as needed using a fogger, mister, or simply spraying the enclosure a few times per day. 

Bearded dragons usually do well with moderate humidity, around 30-40% and thrive in habitats where the average temperatures are in the low 80F range. Like most reptiles, they need a basking spot between 92F and 100F. In many homes, the humidity does not need to be increased much above the natural humidity in these areas. However, if the environment outside the enclosure is especially dry, humidity within the enclosure will have to be elevated.  

Ball pythons have a similar temperature preference, with an average around 80F, as long as a basking spot around 95F is provided on the warm area of the enclosure. These nocturnal snakes do well with more humidity than bearded dragons, requiring 50-60% as an average. They need a significant increase in humidity, up to 75%, during shed.  

Red-footed tortoises are native to tropical areas, and as such do well with humidity above 55-60%. They often prefer a stable temperature between 85F and 90F, with a basking spot between 95F and 100F. As these reptiles often grow to larger sizes than other pets and may require a larger enclosure, multiple sources of heat may need to be provided.  

Chameleons are difficult reptiles to care for, as they have very specific ranges for heat and humidity. Different varieties of chameleons require different specifications. When compared to other reptiles, they require significantly higher humidity, up to 80%. Temperature profiles are similar to other reptiles; they prefer a warm area up to 90F and a cooler area around 75F. Since these reptiles are arboreal, the top of the enclosure should be the warmest and the bottom the coolest.  

Light and Heat: Essential in All Reptiles 

Most reptiles have a requirement for a full spectrum UV light. In order to synthesize adequate vitamin D3, UVA and UVB full spectrum lights are best, with reptiles needing at least 8 to 12 hours of adequate light every day. Even when they are still bright to human eyes, UVA/UVB lights generally only produce appropriate amounts of essential wavelengths for about 6 months and need to be replaced regularly. Lack of adequate UV light can slow metabolism, delay shedding, and contribute to metabolic bone disease. A solar gun can be used to assess the adequacy of bulbs if needed.  

When UVA/UVB lights are used, they may or may not produce enough heat for the enclosure. A separate heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter may need to be included in a reptile enclosure to ensure adequate heat. If temperatures drop lower than ideal at night, a night bulb that emits heat and red or purple light may be used.  

Dietary Requirements: The Deal in the Dish 

Different reptiles have wildly different dietary requirements, and these can change over the course of the pet’s lifetime. All reptiles need clean, fresh water changed daily. Ball pythons, bearded dragons, and tortoises need a water supply large enough that they can soak if they wish, but not so deep that they cannot get out of it or accidentally drown. Chameleons rarely drink from a dish, but instead sip water droplets from the environmental enrichment or decorative elements. Prolonged dehydration is a key factor in kidney disease and may cause life-threatening dysregulation of uric acid metabolism.  

Almost all reptiles need calcium supplementation. This can be provided in liquid or powder form, and is often added directly onto the diet. Ball pythons that are fed whole rodents may not need extra calcium supplementation.  

Bearded dragons and tortoises are omnivorous, and need a variety of foods to remain healthy. As juveniles, they need more protein to ensure appropriate growth, but as adults their diet should consist of mainly dark leafy greens. Tortoises tolerate fruit better than bearded dragons, and small amounts can be provided based on preference. High oxalate foods such as spinach or broccoli should be fed in only small amounts. Adult bearded dragons and tortoises should eat a diet of varied plant material daily, with insects for protein a few times per week. Introducing vegetables from a young age can help these reptiles gain an appreciation for these valuable foods. If fed only insects or protein at a young age, many reptiles refuse vegetables when they are older.  

Snakes should eat rodents, such as mice or rats, once per week as juveniles, and every 2-3 weeks as adults. Live food is not recommended as these rodents can bite the snake in self-defence and cause life-threatening wounds. Frozen-thawed food, at or above the enclosure temperature should be offered. The size of the prey should be slightly less than the width of the ball python at the thickest part of the midbody. In order to avoid confusion with the owner’s hand, snakes can be fed in a separate feeding tank as opposed to their normal habitat. 

Chameleons are strictly insectivores, and prefer a varied insect diet. Insects that can climb through the branches and leaves within the enclosure more reliably imitate the natural hunting behaviors of these difficult pets. Many chameleons will not hunt food that is on the ground.  

General Husbandry is the Key to Healthy Reptiles 

Although there are as many recommendations as there are species of reptiles, knowing how these special pets are housed and fed can eliminate most common medical problems. Veterinary continuing education, especially in exotics, can help general practice veterinarians solve most reptile concerns. Free online veterinary CE can provide what appears to be some simple ideas to manage the common reptile husbandry concerns, but more complex cases can require more in-depth knowledge. A comprehensive education in exotic veterinary medicine, such as a veterinary exoticsExotic Animal Practice certificate program, offers a greater exploration of the many components that affect these special pets. 

The Improve Veterinary Education Exotic Animal Practice exotics certificate program provides an excellent course to explore the intricacies of veterinary exotic practice, and a greater understanding of husbandry, common diseases, and diagnostics of these unusual species. This online CE program can result in an internationally recognized veterinary certificate, and can help a veterinarian distinguish themselves in the complicated field of exotic veterinary medicine.